Don’t you love it when you enter a restaurant and immediately know that you’ve made the right choice? That’s exactly the confidence and warmth that Flyinig Mango exuded on two recent visits. We were greeted by no fewer than three people – a cook working the open kitchen, a server rushing food out to the patio and another server making her way through the busy room. I knew I was in great hands. Ambience: Sensory delights abound, from the smoke-cooking aromas that hit you from a half a block away and the sizzle of the open kitchen, to the energetic paintings of Southern jazz-greats and the gleaming new hardwood floors.

Menu: Barbecue, Caribbean and Cajun/Creole specialties anchor the menu, including an admirable selection of seafood. Spend as little as $8 for a sandwich with a side to $24 for a strip steak, with plenty priced in between.Tastes: Flying Mango made its reputation on barbecue, but I asked owner Michael Wedeking (who congenially circles the room often) to nudge us in other directions. He said he was especially proud of his Southern specialties.

Justifiably so. I especially loved the Red-Neck Surf-n-Turf, with its succulent, spoon-tender ribs, glistening Cajun-spiced catfish and red beans and rice. It’s a best-of-both-worlds plate for those who can’t come here without enjoying smoked meats, but want to veer a bit off the beaten path, too. The Louisiana Platter, with spicy, smoked Andouille Sausage and a solid chicken Creole satisfied my search for robust flavors.While nearly every restaurant does a version of protein over greens (e.g., chicken Caesar salad et. al.), Flying Mango makes one you might just find yourself thinking about the next day. For the Jenny Salad, a generous slab of meaty brisket (complete with an irresistible flap of flab) perches atop a well-thought-out salad of greens, apples and peanuts tossed in a honey-mustard dressing – a steal for $11.

The high end of the menu did not disappoint, either. The Coyote Strip ($24) tops a flavorful New York strip with a fascinating deep, dark molasses-based sauce, sprinkled with toasted pecan halves.If, by chance, you see grits or greens on the specials board, nab them – Wedeking plans to amp up the Southern side of the menu soon, and these sides bode well for what’s to come.Bottom line: A favorite on the Des Moines dining scene – for good reason.

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